My first Christmas in London was an eye-opener. I wasn’t expecting it, but panettone was everywhere — in supermarkets, stacked high in decorative boxes; in bakeries, wrapped in crinkled cellophane; even at train station delis and next to viennoiserie stands, like it belonged there all year. I knew it as an Italian Christmas cake, but I hadn’t realised how deeply it had travelled beyond Italy — or how ritualistic its presence had become in other parts of Europe.
Panettone comes from Milan and dates back at least to the 15th century. It’s a sweet, enriched bread, traditionally made with flour, eggs, butter, sugar, and natural yeast, filled with candied orange peel and raisins. Its signature characteristics are its tall dome shape, soft and springy interior, and a slow fermentation process that gives it depth of flavour.
If you’re buying it, you’ll recognise the distinctive high-sided boxes and cylindrical paper moulds. But if you decide to make it at home, the process is slow and technical — not because it’s overly complex, but because it demands patience. The dough needs multiple rises and a careful balance of structure and airiness.
A key part of the technique is to shape the dough into a tight dome before final proofing, so it rises evenly and supports the weight of the fruit. Fill the mould to no more than two-thirds, or it will overflow in the oven. And don’t be tempted to overload it with raisins or candied peel — too much filling weighs down the dough and gives you a heavy crumb. The result, when done right, is beautiful: a soft, tender bread that tears apart in tufts and smells of citrus and butter.
It’s not something you need to bake — store-bought panettone is generally excellent — but making it from scratch is one of those projects that teaches you about fermentation, dough strength, and how flavour develops with time.
Panettone (Beginner-Friendly Version)
Ingredients
- 500g strong white bread flour
- 100g caster sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- 10g instant yeast
- 200ml warm milk
- 2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
- 150g softened unsalted butter
- 100g raisins
- 75g candied orange peel
- Zest of 1 lemon
- Zest of 1 orange
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 tbsp rum (optional)
- Oil or butter for greasing
- 1 egg (for egg wash)
Method
1. Soak the fruit
Soak the raisins and candied peel in a little warm water or rum for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry.
2. Make the dough
In a large bowl or stand mixer, combine flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. In another bowl, whisk together the warm milk, eggs, and yolks. Add wet ingredients to the dry and mix to form a sticky dough. Knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth.
Gradually add the butter, one piece at a time, kneading between additions. The dough should be soft, elastic, and slightly sticky. Cover and leave to rise in a warm place for 1.5–2 hours, or until doubled.
3. Incorporate the filling
Punch down the dough. Gently knead in the soaked fruit, orange peel, citrus zest, and vanilla. Shape into a tight ball.
4. Proof
Place the dough into a tall panettone mould (or deep cake tin lined with high parchment walls), filling it two-thirds full. Cover and proof again for 1.5–2 hours, until risen near the top.
5. Bake
Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Brush the top with beaten egg. Score a cross on top and bake for 40–45 minutes, covering with foil if it browns too quickly. It’s done when a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.
6. Cool
Cool upside down if possible (pierce two skewers through the base and suspend it over a large pot or between books) to preserve height and texture. Otherwise, cool on a wire rack.
