Haricot beans are modest in appearance but profound in culinary impact. Small, oval and white, they are prized not for bold flavour but for texture. When cooked properly, they become creamy without dissolving, structured without chalkiness. They absorb seasoning readily, thicken broths naturally, and bridge the space between starch and protein.
In France, haricots blancs underpin slow-cooked regional dishes. Their Italian cousins — cannellini — form the backbone of soups and braises. In Britain, navy beans (a close relative) are transformed into the familiar comfort of baked beans. Across cultures, the bean performs the same quiet role: stabiliser, thickener, sustainer.
Technically, haricot beans are fascinating. Their starch granules swell gradually during cooking, and their skins soften as pectin breaks down. Salt timing matters. If added too early to very hard water, beans can toughen; if added too late, they risk blandness. Gentle simmering is crucial. A rolling boil ruptures skins and clouds the cooking liquid. A slow tremble preserves shape and encourages creaminess.
Soaking is both practical and structural. An overnight soak hydrates evenly, reducing cooking time and promoting uniform texture. Some cooks prefer a quick soak (boil briefly, then rest an hour), but slow soaking produces more consistent results.
Aromatics matter, but restraint matters more. Garlic, bay, rosemary, sage — these complement without dominating. Tomatoes add acidity, but too much can slow softening. Fat enriches and carries flavour. Olive oil yields silkiness; pork fat yields depth.
What makes haricot beans special is their neutrality. They are a canvas. Treated simply, they taste pure and comforting. Enriched thoughtfully, they become luxurious.
Few cooks understood this better than Marcella Hazan, whose approach to beans — like much of her Italian cooking — emphasised clarity, balance and patience.
Marcella Hazan’s Haricot Beans (Cannellini-Style)
Ingredients
250 g dried haricot or cannellini beans
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2–3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Salt and black pepper
Method
- Soak beans overnight in cold water. Drain.
- Place in a heavy pot with fresh water covering by 5 cm. Add garlic and rosemary.
- Bring slowly to a gentle simmer. Do not boil. Skim foam if necessary.
- Cook 60–90 minutes until tender but intact.
- Add salt only once beans are nearly soft. Continue cooking until creamy.
- Remove rosemary. Dress generously with olive oil and black pepper.
Serve warm with crusty bread or alongside simply grilled meat. The broth should be lightly thickened and glossy, not watery.
Traditional British-Style Haricot Beans
Ingredients
250 g dried navy (haricot) beans
1 small onion, finely diced
2 tbsp tomato purée
1 tbsp molasses or dark brown sugar
1 tsp English mustard powder
2 tbsp cider vinegar
500 ml light stock or bean cooking liquid
Salt
Method
- Soak beans overnight. Drain and simmer gently in fresh water 60–90 minutes until tender. Drain, reserving liquid.
- In a saucepan, soften onion in a little oil until translucent.
- Stir in tomato purée, molasses, mustard and vinegar. Cook 2–3 minutes.
- Add cooked beans and enough stock to just cover.
- Simmer very gently 30–40 minutes until sauce thickens and coats the beans. Season with salt.
The sauce should be glossy, gently sweet, lightly acidic, and cling to each bean — comforting, balanced, and unmistakably British.
