A Culinary Heirloom from the Mughal Era
Tabak Maaz, the golden-crisp lamb ribs that glisten with rendered fat, traces its origins to the royal kitchens of Mughal emperors who summered in Kashmir. The name itself—”Tabak” meaning “pan” and “Maaz” meaning “meat”—hints at its preparation in wide copper vessels where ribs are fried to perfection. Unlike other Wazwan dishes that showcase complex gravies, the dish of Tabak Maaz celebrates the purity of well-spiced, slow-cooked meat transformed by precise frying.
Tabak Maaz’s Textural Masterpiece
In the symphony of a traditional Kashmiri feast, Tabak Maaz plays the crucial role of providing textural contrast. While dishes like Rogan Josh and Yakhni offer rich sauces, these ribs bring a satisfying crunch that elevates the entire dining experience. Historically, they were reserved for special occasions, their generous use of ghee and lamb fat signaling a host’s prosperity. Today, Tabak Maaz remains an indispensable part of wedding Wazwans, where their aromatic crackle announces the feast’s grandeur.
The Science Behind Perfect Tabak Maaz
The magic of Tabak Maaz lies in its two-stage cooking process. First, the ribs are simmered for hours in milk and mild spices until the collagen melts into gelatin. This slow braising ensures the meat stays succulent during the second phase—a meticulous frying that renders the fat and creates a lacquered crust. Kashmiri wazas insist on using only the rib section near the belly, where alternating layers of meat and fat guarantee optimal texture in Tabak Maaz.
The Recipe: A Test of Patience and Precision
Ingredients:
- 1 kg lamb ribs (breast portion with even fat distribution)
- 1 liter full-fat milk
- 1 tbsp ginger powder
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
- 2 green cardamom pods
- 1 cup pure ghee
- Rock salt to taste
Method:
- The Milk Braise
In a heavy copper degchi, submerge ribs in milk with ginger, fennel, and cardamom. Simmer uncovered for 2.5 hours until the milk reduces to a thick coating and the meat separates from the bone with gentle pressure. - The First Fry
Heat ghee to 130°C in a wide pan. Fry ribs in batches until pale gold, about 8 minutes. This slow rendering melts internal fat without burning the exterior. - The Crisping Ritual
Increase heat to 180°C for the final fry. The ribs should sizzle violently for just 90 seconds, emerging with an audible crackle and an amber sheen. Drain on a rack—never paper—to preserve texture. - Serving Tradition
Arrange the dish of Tabak Maaz ribs on a warmed copper platter, sprinkled with rock salt. In Wazwan service, they’re presented alongside seekh kebabs as part of the initial “salaam” course, their aroma preparing guests for the feast ahead.
A Disappearing Art in Modern Kitchens
With younger generations shunning labour-intensive techniques of Tabak Maaz, authentic preparations face extinction. Most commercial kitchens now skip the milk braise, opting for quick frying that yields tough results. Yet in Srinagar’s old mohallas, a handful of waza families still prepare it the ancestral way—their copper degchis whispering stories of emperors and weddings where these ribs were the currency of honour.
